^'^T or DC5\Q«\^^ 



Art or bE5iQNiNQ 

Complete Manual of Self-Instruction in 
... all Branches of Tailoring . . . 

1903 
ELIZ/IPETH, N. J. 



T 



Copyright. 1903 by JULIUS SCHUMAN. 



UBRARY of 00N8RESS 
Twa Oopies neoeiytm 

OCT 6 1905 

Qopyriaiit tiiLrji 
cy^SS' ex. Ma Ma 
COPY 8.: : 



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4 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Instructions For Measuring 



COAT 



Place square uader arm, draw out the fourteen inch celluloid scale 
across back; put a chalk mark where celluloid scale lies on back; find how much 
blade measures; take tape measure across back end out to neck and find how 
much it measures. Take tape measure and measure from neck to centre of back 
and out to natural waist measure and fall length of coat. Measure the breast and 
the waist, then take measure of under arm for sleeve. 

VEST 

Measure from neck out to shape of collar, and out for full length of vest. 
Measure breast and waist. 

RAINTS 

Measure from hip bone out to shoe heel; measure inside length from 
crotch to shoe heel. Measure waist; measure the highest part of hips; measure 
knee and bottom. 



^ 



Instructions to Cut All Sizes 

When you cut a 38 size, select the scale. Instead of what you always 
use, 18 for "ii], use 19 for 38. 

When you cut a 40 size, use "20 and so on. 

When you make sizes smaller, under 36, it is merely on the same from. 

When you cut 32, use Ki. 

When you cut 37, use 184. 

It is the same form on all coats, all vests and all pants. 



^ 



Our agent is obliged to instruct you on the scales and lines. If he fails 
to do so, please notify us, and yoa will receive prompt attention. 
Price: Beginners, $15.00; Tailors, $10 00; Scholars, $5.00 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Four Button Sack Coat 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9i Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

29 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 

A to C is 9i inches, draw a line. 

C to E is 7 5 inches, draw a line. 

E to F is 6 inches, draw a line. 

A to G is full length, 29 inches, draw a line. 

E to 11 is i inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, and draw a straight line. 
Shape from 1 1 to G. 

A to H is M8. 

H to I is i inch. 

I to 6() is I inch. 
Shape neck A to 66. 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 3 inch, draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch 

3 to L is 6-18. draw a line up. 

12 to M make full breast measure 18 inches. 
M to 4 is 2h inches. 

4 to 5 is Ik inche". 

Apply square from T to I and make a point 6, draw a line from 6 to 7 and go out 
a short line from 6 to 26. 

6 to 26 is I inch. 
26 to J is i inch. 

6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from I to J and shape 66 to J. 
Shape J to 8. 

11 to U is i-18, and allow k inch, and draw a straight line out to 59. 
59 to 60 is A inch, and draw a straight line from U to 60. 
Shape from 8 to U. which gives whole back. 

Apply the square from 12 to T on i; it measures I65 inches; measure the same 
I62 inches on halves, from 11 to V. 

Vto YisM8 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Draw a line from Q to X. 

Q to 13 is 2h inches. 

13 to 14 is Ik inches 
24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is I5 inches. 




60" 69 

-^ fnuR BuTTnN Sack Ghat ^ 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 
Four Button Sack Goat 

(Continued). 



Draw a cross line from N to B. 

N to 18 is g-18, draw a line. 

18 to O is 4 inches. 

66 to J is 65 inches; then make the same 65 inches from N to 67 
Shape 67 to N for shoulder. 
Shape N to for neck. 
Shape arm 67-10-T, which oives arm hole. 
Shape 0-4-13. 

to 19 is li inches. 
Shape 19-5-14. 
Shape 14 to 75, and go out I inch longer for bottom, and go out to (ii), that gives 

shape of front. 
U to 11 is 6? inches. Apply the 61 inches to Q; go out to 15 as waist measure, 
and as 16 is waist measure, add li inches, that will bring you to 15. 

W to 17 is 61 inches. 
Apply 61 to X, and as 19 the half of hip measure, and go out to 61. 

91 to 76 is h inch. 

76 to R is 5 inches. 

R to P is 12 inches. 
Draw a line from R to P. 

8 to 68 is 5 inch. 
Shape from 68 to R. 

15 to Y is 85 inches, and take out a half inch from each side. 
Shape side 68-76-15-61-69. Draw a line from R to Y. 
Shape dart R 16-90. 
Shape dart R-45-90. 
Make a line for pockets. 

70 to 71 is 4 inches. 

71 to 72 is 6 inches. 

19 to 21 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 21, N and 20. 

N to 20 is 3i inches. 

20 to 22 is Uinches. 
Shape from 22 to 64 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 

65 to 80 is 1^ inches. 
Shape from 23 to 65; this is for collar. 
80 to is 3 inch taken out for dart of lapel. 




FnuR Button Sack Ghat ^ 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Sack Co3t 



The tneasarements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9i Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

29 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 

A to C is 9^ inches, draw a line. 

C to E is 72 inches, draw a line. 

E to F is (3 inches, draw a line. 

A to G is full length, 29 inches, draw a line. 

E to 11 is 2 inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, and draw a straight line. 
Shape from 11 to G. 

AtoHisMS. 

H to I is i inch. 

I to (3(3 is i inch. 
Shape neck A to 66 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 2 inch, draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch 

3 to L is i-18, draw a line up. 

12 to M make full breast measure 18 inches. 
M to 4 is 2^ inches. 

4 to 5 is 3^ inches. 

Apply sqaare from T to I and make a point 6, draw a line from 6 to 7 and go out 
a short line from 6 to 26. 

6 to 26 is I inch. 
26 to J is 2 inch. 

6 to 7 is 3 inches, 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from I to J and shape 66 to J. 
Shape J to 8. 

11 to U is J- 18, and allow k inch, and draw a straight line out to 59. 
59 to 60 is h inch, and draw a straight line from U to 60. 
Shape from 8 to U. which gives whole back. 

Apply the square from 12 to T on ^; it measures I65 inches; measure the same 
I65 inches on halves, from 11 to V. 

Vto YisM8. 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Draw a line from Q to X. 

Q to 13 is 22 inches. 

13 to 14 is 32 inches, draw a straight line out to 89. 
89 to 51 is 1 inch. 

51 to 90 is I inch. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Sack Goat 

(Continued). 



Draw a straight line from 14 to 75 and 90. 
Shape bottom 90 to 69. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is I5 inches. 
Draw a cross line from N to B. 

Ntol8isM8. 

18 to is 4 inches. 

66 to J is 62 inches; then make the same 65 inches from N to 67 
Shape 07 to N for shoulder. 
Shape N to for neck. 
Shape arm 67-10-T, which gives arm hole. 
Shape 0-4-13. 

to 19 is H inches. 
U to 11 is 6? inches. Apply the 6i inches to Q; go out to 15 as waist measure, 
and as 16 is waist measure, add \h inches, that will bring you to 15. 

W to 17 is 61 inches. 
Apply 61 to X, and as 19 the half of hip measure, and go out to 61. 

76 to R is 3 inches. 

R to P is 12 inches 
Draw a line from R to P. 

8 to 68 is 2 inch. 
Shape from 68 to R. 

15 to Y is 32 inches, and take out a half inch from each side. 
Shape side 68-76-15-61-69. 
Shape dart R 16-90. 
Shape dart R-45-90. 
Make a line for pockets. 

70 to 71 is 4 inches. 

71 to 72 is 6 inches. 
to 19 is 3 inches. 

19 to 5 is lOi inches. 
Shape 19-5-14. 

Shape from 80 to 19 for lapel. 
Draw a staight line from 5-N-20. 

N to 20 is 31 inches. 

20 to 22 is Ij inches. 
Shape from 22 to 64 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 

65 to 80 is 1^ inch. 
Shape from 23 to 65; this is for collar. 
80 to is 2 inch taken out for lapel. 



N 

k 

M 

M 

N 

k 



h 



4 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Single Br33St3cl Overco3t 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9h Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

40 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 
A to C is dh inches, draw a line. 
C to E is ~h inches, draw a line. 
E to F is 6 inches, draw a line. 
A to G is full length, 40 inches, draw a line. 
E to 11 is i inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, draw a straight line. Shape from 11 to G. 
A to H is M8. 
H to I is i inch. 

I to 66 is h inch 
Shape neck from A to 66. 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is h inch, draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch. 

3 to L is 6-18, draw a line up. 

12 to M is full breast measure 18 inches, 
M to 4 is 2 i inches 

4 to 5 is 2i inches. 

Apply square from T to I, and make a point 6, draw a line from 6 to 7 and go out 
a short line from 6 to 26. 

6 to 26 is I inch. 
26 to J is i inch. 

6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inches. 

Draw a straight line from I to J, and shape 66 to J. 
Shape from J to 8. 

II to U is ^-18, allow k inch and draw a straight line out to 59. 
59 to 60 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from U to 60. 
Shape 8 to U, which gives whole back. 

Apply square from 12 to T on 5, it measures I65. inches; measure the same I62 
inches on halves 11 to V. 

VtoYisMS. 
Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure and draw a line from Q to X. 

Q to 13 is 2h inches. 

13 to 14 is 2i inches, draw a straight line out to 89. 
89 to 51 is 1 inch. 

51 to 90 is I inch. 
Draw a straight line from 14-75-90. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Single Breasted Overcoat 

(Continued) 



Shape bottom from 1)0 to 69. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is 1 3 inches. 
Draw a cross line from N to B. 

N to 18 is g-18, draw a line. 

18 to is 4 inches. 

66 to J is 63 inches. Then make the same 63 inches from N to 67. 

Shape from 67 to N, which gives shape of coat shoulder. 

Shape N to for neck. 

Shape arm 67-10-T for arm hole. 

Shape 0-4-13. 

to 19 is 3 inches. 
Shape 19-5-14. 
U to 11 is 61 inches; apply 6^ inches to Q, go out to 15, as waist measure, and as 

16 is waist measure, add li inches, that will bring you to 15. 
W to 17 is 61 inches; apply 6| inches to X, and as 19 is the half of seat measure, 
go out to 61. 

91 to 76 is 3 inch. 

76 to R is 3 inches. 

R to P is 12 inches. 
Draw a line from R to P. 

8 to 68 is h inch. 
Shape from 68 to R. 

15 to. Y is 3i inches, and take out 5 inch from each side. 
Shape side 68-76 15 61-69. 
Draw a line from R to Y, 
Shape dart R- 16-90. 
Shape dart R 45-90. 
Draw a line for pockets. 

70 to 71 is 4 inches. 

71 to 72 is 6 inches. 

19 to 21 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 21-N-20. 

N to 20 is di inches. 

20 to 22 is U inches. 
Shape from 22 to 64. 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 
65 to 80 is I5 inches. 
Shape from 23 to 65, this is for collar. 

80 to is i inch, taken out for dart of lapel. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Doufc>l3 Breasted Overcoat 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9i Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

40 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 

A to C is 9^ inches, draw a line. 

C to E is ll inches, draw a line. 

E to F is 6 inches, draw a line. 

A to G is full length, 40 inches, draw a line. 

E to 11 is 5 inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, and draw^ a straight line. 
Shape from 1 1 to G. 

A to H is i-18. 

H to I is 3 inch. 

I to 66 is 5 inch. 
Shape neck A to OO. 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 5 inch, draw a line np. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch 

3 to L is 6-18, draw a line up. 

12 to M make full breast measure 18 inches, 
M to 4 is 25 inches. 

4 to 5 is 3i inches. 

Apply square from T to I and make a point 6, draw a line from 6 to 7 and go out 
a short line from 6 to 26. 

6 to 26 is I inch. 
26 to J is i inch. 

6 to 7 is 3 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

Draw a straight line from I to J and shape 66 to J. 
Shape J to 8. 

11 to U is 1-18, and allow I inch, and draw a straight line out to 59. 
59 to 60 is i inch, and draw a straight line from U to 60. 
Shape from 8 to U. which gives whole back. 

Apply the squarf^ from 12 to T on t; it measures 16i inches; measure the same 
16i inches on halves, from 11 to V. 

Y to Y is 1-18. 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Draw a line from Q to X. 

Q to 13 is 2h inches. 

13 to 14 is 35 inches, draw a straight line out to 89. 
89 to 51 is 1 inch. 

51 to 90 is i inch. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Overcoat 

(Continued). 



Draw a straight line from 14 to 75 and 90. 
Shape bottom 90 to 69. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is H inches. 
Draw a cross line from N to B 

N to 18 is M8. 

18 to O is 4 inches. 

GG to J is 65 inches; then make the same G5 inches from N to 67 
Shape G7 to N for shoulder. 
Shape N to for neck. 
Shape arm 67-10-T, which gives arm hole. 
Shape 0-4-18. 

O to 19 is U inches. 
U to 11 is 61 inches. Apply the Gi inches to Q; go out to 1") as waist measure, 
and as 16 is waist measure, add H inches, that will bring you to 15. 

W to 17 is 61 inches. 
Apply 61 to X, and as 19 the half of hip measure, and go out to 61. 

76 to R is 3 inches. 

R to P is 12 inches 
Draw a line from R to P. 

8 to 68 is h inch. 
Shape from 68 to R. 

15 to Y is 05 inches, and take out a half inch from each side. 
Shape side 68-76-15-61-69. 
Shape dart R 16-90. 
Shape dfirt R-45-90. 
Make a line for pockets. 

70 to 71 is 4 inches. 

71 to 72 is 6 inches. 
to 19 is 3 inches. 

19 to 5 is IO5 inches. 
Shape 19-5-14. 

Shape from 80 to 19 for lapel. 
Draw a staight line from 5-N-20. 

N to 20 is 31 inches. 

20 to 22 is 11 inches. 
Shape from 22 to 64 

20 tio 23 is 2 inches. 

65 to 80 is H inch. 
Shape from 23 to G5; this is for collar. 
80 to is 2 inch taken out for lapel. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Tlnr33 Button Frock Coat 



The rneasiirements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9^ Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

36 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 
A to C is dh. inches, draw a line. 
C to E is 71 inches, draw a line. 
E to F I3 is inches, draw a line. 
A to G is fall length, 36 inches, draw a line. 
E to 11 is 3 inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, draw a line, put square down to 11 and 37, and draw a 
straight line down. 

A to H is M8. 
H to I is i inch. 

1 to 66 is 3 inch. 
Shape neck A to i}(). 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 5 inch, draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch 

3 to L is J- 18, draw a Ihie up. 

12 to M make full breast measure 18 inches. 
M to 4 is 2i inches. 

4 to 5 is Ik inche*. 

11 to 2 is g-18, draw a straight line down to 36. 

12 to T is I65 inches. By applying square on I, put your square on halves, 
measure from 11 to Y, the same I63 inches. 
V to Y is i-18, breast measure. 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Q to 13 is 21 inches. 

13 to 14 is 1 1 inches 

12 to 76 is k-lS. 
76 to 41 is I inch. 

T to I; put the square down and make a point 6; draw a straight line up and down. 
6 to 26 is 2 inch. 
26 to J is 2 inch. 

6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

8 to 113 is Hnch. 
113 to 68 is 3 inch. 

Draw a straight line from I to J, and shape back shoulder, 66 to J. 
Shape from J to 8, and 8 to 41 and 2, which gives whole back. 
41 to Ris MS. 

2 to 11 is 21 inches. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Three Button Frock Goat. 

(Continued) 



Put the 21 to Q, go out to 15, that will give waist measure which is IC, add 1 inch 
as it falls out 1 inch between side body and front, and that will bring you 
to 15. 
Shape side 68, 76, 15, 61 and h inch down to 69. 

15 to 44 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 44 to R. 
Shape the arm eye 68 to R. 
Take a half inch out of each side from 44. 
Shape from R to 45 and 31. 
Shape R 46 to 47. 
Shape from (iU to 31. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 is li inches. 
Place the square across line from IS to B. 
Measure back shoulder in inches 66 to J. You will find it measures 63 inches and 

make the same 63 inches from N to 67, that gives shape of front shoulder. 
Shape 67-10-T, and out to R, which gives arm hole. 
Shape from 67 to N, for shoulder. 

N to 18 is s-18, draw a line. 

18 to is 4 inches. 
Shape N to for neck. 

Shape 0, 4-13. 

to 19 is I2 inches. 
Shape 19-5-14, front of coat. 

N to 48 is 1 inch. 
Hold with right hand the end of tape measure on 48 and reach with other end and 
have chalk and end of tape measure and place on 69; hold the measure 
tight in both hands and make a sweeping motion. 
Draw a straight line from 4 to 34. 

47 to 31 is I inch. 
It measures the same I inch from 61 to 30, and draw a line down. 

30 to 25 is 6 inches. 
Draw a cross line for hip. 

25 to 29 is g-19 of hip measure and go out from 29 to 27 2 inch. 
Pat square from 15 to 27 and make a point 35. 
Shape 30-27-35, that gives back of skirt. 
Put square on 31 and 34 and draw a straight line. 
Shape 31-47-34-33 for top of skirt. 

33 to 32 is 2 inch. 
Shape 30-31-47-32 

G to 51 is I65 inches. 
Shape from 14-32-33-51-36, that gives front and bottom. 
When you shape bottom of skirt go out I inch longer than bottom of skirt. 

80 to is ¥ inch, taken out for dart of lapel. 

47 to 105 is 3 inches 

105 to 106 is k inch taken out for dart of front. 

19 to 21 is 5 inches. 




-m^ 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGINING 



Three Button Frock Goat. 

(Continued). 



Put the square from 21 to N and make a straight line to -20. 

JS to 20 is 31 inches. 

20 to 22 is II inches, and shape from 22 to ()4 under collar 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 

O to 65 is li inches. 
Shape from 23 to 65, which gives whole under collar. 



f ; 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Bre3St3cl Rrinc3 Albert 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

93 Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

18 Fashionable Waist. 38 Hip. 
40 Length. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 
A to C is 9 5 inches, draw a lice. 
C to E is Ih inches, draw a line. 
E to F is li inches, draw a line. 
A to G is full length, 40 inches, draw a line. 
E to 11 is i inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, draw a line, put square down to 11 and 37, draw a 
straight line down 

A to H is M8. 
H to I is 2 inch. 

I to 66 is 5 inch 
Shape neck from A t > 66. 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 2 inch, draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch. 

3 to L is g- 18, draw a Itne up. 

12 to M makes full breast measure 18 inches. 

M to 4 is 2i inches. 

II to 2 is 8-18, draw a straight line down to 36. 

12 to T is I62 inches; bv applying the squares on I, put square on halves, measure 
from 11 to V, the same I62 inches. 

V to Y is 8-18 breast measure. 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Q to 13 is 2i inches. ■ 

Draw straight line down to 90 and 51. 

12 to 76 is M8. 

76 to 41 is I inches. 
T to I, put the square down and make a point 6, draw a straight line up and 
down. 

6 to 26 is 5 inch. 

26 to .1 is i inch. 

6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inches. 

8 to 113 is ^ inch. 
113 to 68 is 5 inch. 

Draw a straight line for [ to J, and shape back shoulder, 66 to J. 
Shape J to 8, and 8 to 41 and 2, that gives whole back. 
41toRisM8. 



iW& 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Prince Albert 

(Continued) 



2 to 11 is 2| inches; put the 21 to Q, go out to 15; as 16 is waist measure, add 1 
inch as it falls out 1 inch between side body and front, and that will 
bring you to 15. 
Shape side body 68, 76, 15, 61 and h inch down to 69. 

15 to 44 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 44 to R 
Shape the arm eye 68 to K. 
Take a half inch out of each side from 44. 
Sliape from R to 45 and 31. 
Shape R 46 to 47. 
Shape from 69 to 31. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 
9 to 10 is h inch. 
Place the square across line from N to B. 

Measure back shoulder in inches 66 to J. You will find it measures 6i inches and 
make the same (Jh inches from N to 67, that will give shape of front shoulder. 
Shape arm 67-10-T and out to R, which gives arm hole. 
Shape 67 to N for shoulder. 

N to 18 is g-18, draw a line. 
18 to is 4 inches. 
Shape N to for neck. 
Shape 0-4-13-78. 

N to 48 is 1 inch. 
Hold with right hand the end of tape measure on 48, reach with other end and have 
chalk and end of tape measure and place on 69, hold the measure tight in 
both hands, and makn a sweeping motion. 
Draw a straight line from 4 to 34. 34 to 33 is 1 inch. 47 to 31 is I inch. It 
measures the same I inch from 61 to 30 and draw a line down. 
30 to 25 is 6 inches 
Draw a cross line for hip, (25 to 29 is 8-19 of hip measure) and go out from 29 to 

27 a half inch. Put square from 15 and 27 and mal<e a point 35. 
Shape 30-27-35. that gives back of skirt. 
Shape 30-31-47-33-78-32 

Place end of square on 78 and 13 and make a straight line up to 91 and 92, 
13 to 14 is 2 5 inches. 

91 to 5 is 3 inches. 

92 to 19 is 3 inches. 
Draw a line from 14-90 to 51. 

90 to 51 is 1 inch. 
Draw a line from 35 to 51, and shape bottom. 
Shape lapel 92 to 19. 
Shape inside revere 92-91-13. 
Shape front of revere 19-5-14-32. 

47 to 105 is 3 inches. 

105 to 106 is \ inch taken out for dart of front. 
Draw a straight line from 5-N-20. 



J 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Prince Albert. 

(Continued). 



N to 20 is 3? inches. 

20 to 22 is U inch. 
Shape from 22 to 64, 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 

O to 65 is 1 3 inch. 
Shape 23 to 65 for collar. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Single Breasted Rrince AlkDert 



The measurementB from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

93 Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

1 7 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

40 Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 

A to C is 9^ inches, draw a line. 

C to E is 11 inches, draw a line. 

E to F is li inches, draw a line. 

A to G is full length, 40 inches, draw a line. 

E to 11 is i inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, make a line, put square down to 11 and 37, draw a 
straight line down 

A to His i-18. 

H to I is i inch. 

I to GO is 5 inch 
Shape neck from A to ()Q. 

I "2 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is i inch, draw a line up, 
24 to 3 is 1 inch. 

3 to L is J-18, draw a line up. 

12 to M makes full breast measure 18 inches. 
M to 4 is 2^ inches. 

4 to 5 is 1| inches. 

II to 2 is g-18, draw a straight line down to 36. 

12 to T is I65 inches bv applying the squares on i, put square on halves, measure 
from 11 to V, the same I65 inches. 

V to Y is g -18 breast measure. 

Y to Q is 16 inches on halves, half of waist measure. 
Q to 13 is 2 5 inches. 

13 to 14 is li inches. 
Draw straight line down to 90 and 51. 

90 to 51 is 1 inch. 
12 to 76 is 1-18. 
76 to 41 is I inches. 
T to I, put the square down and make a point 6, draw a straight line up and 
down. 

6 to 26 is 5 inch. 
26 to J is 4 inch. 

6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inches. 

8 to 113 is i inch. 
113 to 68 is h inch. 

Draw a straight line for I to J, and shape back shoulder, 66 to J. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Single Breasted Prince Albert. 

(Continued) 



Shape J to 8, and 8 to 41 and 2, that gives whole back. 

41 to Ris M8. 

2 to 11 is 21 inches. 
Put the 21 to Q, go out to 15, that will give waist measure which is 10, add 1 inch 
as it falls out 1 inch between side body and front, and that will bring 
you to lo. 
Shape side 68, 76, 15, 61 and i inch down to 6U. 

15 to 44 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 44 to R 
Shape the arm eye 68 to R. 
Take a half inch out of each side from 44. 
Shape from R to 45 and 31. 
Shape R 46 to 47. 
Shape from 60 to 31. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 

9 to 10 isU inch. 
Place the square across line from N to B. 

Measure back shoulder in inches 66 to J. You will find it measures 62 inches and 
make the same 6A inches from N to 67, that will give shape of front shoulder. 
Shape 67 to N for shoulder. 
Shape arm 67-10-T and out to R, which gives arm hole. 

N to 18 is g-18, draw a line. 

18 to is 4 inches. 
Shape N to for n«^ck. 

Shape 0-4-13-78. 

to 19 is H inches. 
Shape 19-5-14, front of coat. 

N to 48 is 1 inch. 
Hold with right hand the end of tape measure on 48, reach with other end and have 
chalk and end of tape measure and place on 69, hold the measure tight in 
both hands, and make a sweeping motion. 
Draw a straight line from 4 to 34. 

34 to 33 is 1 inch. 

47 to 31 is I inch. 
It measures the same I inch from 61 to 30 and draw a line down, 

30 to 25 is 6 inches. 
Draw a cross line for hip. 

25 to 29 is g-19 of heap measure and go out from 29 to 27 a half inch. 
Put square from 15 to 27 and make a point 35. 
Shape 30-27-35, that gives back of skirt. 
Shape 30-31-47-33-78-32 
Draw a line from 37 and 51, and shape bottom. 

80 to O i>< i inch, taken out for dart of lapel. 

47 to 105 is 3 inches. 

105 to 106 is i inch taken out for dart of front, 

19 to 21 is 5 inches. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Single Breasted Prince Albert 

(Continued). 



Put square from 21 to N, and draw a straight line out to 20. 

N to 20 is 3^ inches. 

20 to 22 is li inches. 
Shape to 04 under collar. 

20 to 23 is 2 inches. 

to ()") is H inches. 
Shape from 23 to 65, that gives whole under collar. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Full Dr3ss. 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

9i Centre Back. 36 Breast. 

17 Natural Waist. 32 Waist. 

3() Length. 38 Hip. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 41 inches, draw a short line. 
A to C is 94 inches, draw a line. 
C to E is 7i inches, draw a line. 
E to F is H inches, draw a line. 
A to G is full length, 3(5 inches, draw a line. 
E to 11 is i inch. 
Apply square from A to 11, draw a line, put square down to 11 and 37, and draw a 
straight line down. 

A to His M8. 
H to I is 5 inch. 

1 to 66 is 2 inch. 
Shape neck A to 6G. 

12 to T is 11 inches. 

T to 24 is 4 inch, and draw a line up. 

24 to 3 is 1 inch. 

3 to L is fi-18, draw a line up. 

12 to M is full breast measure, 18 inches. 

M to 4 is 2 5 inches. 

11 to 2 is g-18, draw a straight line down to 36. 

12 to T is 16 5 inches. By applying square on i, put your square on halves, 

measure from 11 to V, the same I63 inches. 
V to Y is g-18 breast measure, Y to Q is 16 inches on halves; half waist measure. 

to 13 is 25 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 13 to 77. 

12 to 76 i^ M8. 
7() to 41 is I inch. 

T to I; put the square down and make a point 6; draw a straight line up and down. 
6 to 26 is i inch. 
26 to J is 4 inch. 

6 to 7 is 2 inches. 

7 to 8 is I inch. 

8 to 113 is I inch 
113 to 68 is i inch. 

Draw a straight line from I to J, and shape back shoulder, 66 to J. 
Shape from J to 8, and 8 to 41 and 2, which gives whole back. 
41 to Ris MS. 

2 to 11 is 21 inches. 

Apply the 21 inches to Q; go out to 15; as that will give waist measure, which 
is 16 inches, add 1 inch. As it falls out 1 inch between the side body and 
front, that will bring you to 15. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Full Dress. 

(Continued). 



Shape side body, 68-76 15-61, and h inch down to 60. 

1") to 44 is 5 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 44 to R. 

Shape the arm eye (iS to R, and take a 2 inch out of each side from 44. 
Shape R-4r)-3l. 
Shape R 46-47. 
Shape from 69 to 31. 

24 to 9 is 2 inches. 
9 to 10 is H inches. 
Place the square across line from N to B. Measure back shoulder in inches, 66 to 
J, you will find it measurers 63 inches. Make the same 6i inches from N 
to 67, that gives shape of front shoalder. 
Shape 67-lO-T, and out to R, which gives arm hole. 
Shape from 67 to N, for shoulder. 

N to 18 is g-18, draw a line. 
18 to is 4 inches. 
Shape N to for neck. 
Shape 0-4-13-78-77. 

N to 48 is 1 incdi. 
Hold with right hand the end of tape measure on 48 and reach with other end and 
have chalk and end of tape measure and place on 69; hold the measure 
tight in both hands and make a sweeping motion. 
Make a straight liae from 4 to 34. 34 to 33 is 1 inch. 47 to 31 is I inch. It 
measures the same I inch from 61 to 30, and draw a line down. 
30 to 25 is 6 inches. 
Make a crof^-s line for hip, (25 to 29 is 1-19 of hip measure) and go out from 29 to 27 

i inch. Pat square from 15 and 27 and make a point 35. 
Shape 30-27-35, that gives back of skirt. 
Shape 30-31-47-33-78-32. 

Place end of square on 78 and 13 and make a straight line up to 91 and 92. 
13 to 14 is 2^ inch. 

91 to 5 is 3 inches. 

92 to 19 is 3 inches. 
Shape inside revere 92-91-13. 

Shape lapel 92 to 19. 
Shape 19-5-14-32-100. 

34 to 97 is 1 inch. 
Place square on 100-97, and draw a straight line to 98. 

97 to 98 is 5^-19 of hip measure. 

G to 99 is on halves; 19 the half of seat measure. 
Draw a straight line from 98 to 99. 
Shape 37 to 99, and shape from 99 to 98-97-100, this is shape of front. 

5 to 101 is 4 inches. 
Draw a straight line from 101, N-20. 

N to 20 is Sk inches. 

20 to 22 is 1? inches. 



SCHUMAIN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Full Dress. 

(Continued). 



Shape 22 to ()4. 

20 to 23 is 2 inclies. 

to 65 is 1 5 inches. 
Shape from 23 to 65. This is for collar. 

47 to 105 is 3 inches. 
105 to 106 is 1 inch, taken out for dart of front. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Sleeve. 



When draping sleeves, lay square across on h, on largest part, aoross arm liole of 

coat pattern. Whatever it measures, cut 1 inch less; this is for v^idth of 

sleeves. For height, find how much it measures from L to N on 

coat pattern. Put square on halves from L to N; 

this will nive height of sleeves. 



o 



A to B is 18 on halves, and a straight line down. 

A to C is J- 11), draw a line. 

A to E is 5-l!>, draw a line. 

C to I is 3 inch, draw a short line 

C to 22 is 8 inches, draw a line. 

22 to I IS 10 inches, draw a line. 

I to 13 is 6 inches, draw a short line down. 

13 to 14 is U inches. 

C to G is I inch. 

I to 16 is I inch. 

1 to 15 is I inch. 
Shape bottom of sleeve from 16 to I and 14. 

6 to 4 is ^-11). 
4 to 5, draw a line, 
4 to 5 is g-18. 
Place the square from 4 to E and make a cross line. 
4 to 2 is 18 inches on halves. 

2 to 3 is 18 on fourths, and make a small line down. 
Place the square from 2 to I and draw a line. 

8 to 7 is i inches. 
Make a straight line from 7 to 15, and from 18 to 17 is i inch. 
Gr to 16, draw a straight line. 
12 to 10 is ^ inch. 
12 to 1 1 is 3 inch. 
Place the square down and make a straight line, 4 6-10. 
Place the square from 10 to 14 and make a straight line from 5 to 11; make a 

straight line from 11 to 14. 
Shape inside of sleeve, G-22-16. 
Shape outside of sleeve. 4 6-10-14. 
Shape under sleeve, 5-11-14. 
Stiape under sleeve, 7-17-15. 

20 to 9 is half the distance as from 3 to 20. 
Shape under sJeeve, 7-9-5. 

Take chalk and end of tape measure in right hand and place on 4; take with left 
hand the other end of measure; keep measure tight and place on 20, then 
make a sweeping motion on 4-23-2; this is the head of sleeve. Curve from 
G to 2, that makes whole sleeve. 




^- Sleeve ^ 

-^ Designed by J.Schuman a- 



SCHUMAIN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Singl3 Br3ast3cl V3St 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows 



o' 



12 Opening. 35 Breast. 

16 Natural Waist. 31 Waist. 

25 Length. 



■'to' 



Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is half of breast measure, 11 h inches on halves; draw a line down. 

B to C is 17 inches on halves; draw a line for breast line. 

B to E is 16 inches; draw waist line. 

E to 17 is 5| inches; make the bottom line only to front part, 

C to 1 is of breast measure, Hi inches; draw a line up. 

1 to 2 is the same 17 5 inches on I; draw a line up. 

18 to L is 5 inch. 

L to I is i inch. 

1 to 24 is 2^ inches. 
L to K is half of breast measure in full inches, 17^ inches; add 2 inches to it that 
makes 19^ inches, then draw a straight line up and down. 

10 to 21 is h inch. 

K to 22 is Hnch. 

15 to 8 is 13-175 breast measure. 
Draw a line from 8 to 7, which is i breast measure, 172 inches. 

8 to 9 is 5 inch. 
Shape neck' 7 to 9. 
Shape 9-15-22-21-11. 

G to F is ^ breast, 17i inches. 
F to I is 12 inches; that gives end of shape of collar, then shape collar. 

F to J is 25 inches. Shape front I to J. 

B to 6 is ]Vl7i 

B to 3 is M7L 
Draw a cross line from 6 to G. 

6 to 5 is 1 inch. 
Shape shoulder from 5 to G. 
Shape 5-24-C for arm hole. 
Draw a cross line from 7 to 3. 
5 to G is 5 mches; measure from 7 to 4 the same 5 inches, that is back shoulder. 

E to 13 is h inch. 

Shape 4 to C as arm hole. 

13 to 15 is 85 inches. 
Apply 83 to 21 and measure half of waist measure, 15^; add to it 2 inches, that 
will make it 17^, that will bring you to 12. 
17 to 14 is 3 inches; draw a line to back only. 
Shape bottom of vest from J to 14 and 11; from C to 13 and 14. 
Shape C-12-14. 




Single Breasted Vest -^ 
Designed by J.§ichuman 




Single Breasted Vest -^ 
Designedl))^ J.Schuman 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Double Breasted Vest 



The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

12 Opening. 35 Breast. 

16 Natural Waist. 31 Waist. 

25 Length. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is half of breast measure, 17 2 inches on halves; draw a line down. 

B to C is IT inches on halves; draw a line for breast line. 

B to E is 16 inches; draw waist line. 

E to 17 is 51 inches; make the bottom line only to front part. 

C to 1 is 6 of breast measure, 17^ inches; draw a line up. 

1 to 2 is the same 17 5 inches on I; draw a line up. 

18 to L is i inch. 

L to I is 5 inch. 

1 to 24 is 2^ inches. 
L to K is half of breast measure in full inches, 17 5 inches; add 2 inches to it that 
makes 19^ inches, then draw a straight line up and down. 

10 to 21 is i inch. 

K to 22 is k inch. 

15 to 8 is 12-175 breast measure. 
Draw a line from 8 to 7, which is I breast measure, llh inches. 

8 to 9 is i inch. 
Shape neck 7 to 9. 
Shape 9-15-22-21-11. 

G to F is J breast, 17^ inches. 
F to 29 is 16 inches; that gives end of shape of collar, then shape collar. 

F to J is 25 inches. 

B to 6 is 1^175. 

B to 3 is M7i. 
Draw a cross line from 6 to G. 

6 to 5 is 1 inch. 
Shape shoulder from 6 to G. 
Shape 5-24-C for arm hole. 
Draw a cross line from 7 to 3. 

5 to G is 5 inches; measure from 7 to 4 the same 5 inches, that is back shoulder. 
Shape 4 to C as arm hole. 

13 to 15 is 85 inches. 
Apply 85 to 21 and measure half of waist measure, ISs; add to it 2 inches, that 
will make it 17i, that will bring you to 12. 

E to 13 is 2 inch. 

17 to 14 is 3 inches. 

28 to 29 is 4 inches. 

J to 30 is 3 inches. 
Shape front 29 to J. 

Shape bottom of vest from J to 14 and 11; from C to 13 and 14. 
Shape C-12-14. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Rants. 



FORE PART. 

The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

41 Outside Seam. 32 Waist. 

30 Inside Seam. 36 Hip. 

17 Knee. 

IQh Bottom. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 11 inches, draw a line. 

B to C is 13 inches, draw a line. 

C to E is 17 inches, draw a line. 

B to I is 5-19 inches, 

C to 9 is M9. 

E to 11 is 5-19, draw a centre line out to 40. 

1 to 2 is ^19. 

2 to 3 is I inches, draw a straight line up. 

3 to 4 is M9. 

4 to 5 is I inch, 

2 to H draw a straight line. 

3 to 6 is i- 19; draw a cross line out to 20. 
H to 21 is 16 inches on halves. 

9 to G is 17 inches on fourths for the knee. 

9 to 8 is 17 inches on fourths for the knee. 

11 to 10 is 31 inches for the bottom. 

11 to 12 is 31 inches for the bottom. 
Put yard stick from lO-C-22 and draw a straight line. 
Place the square from 10 to G and draw a straight line. 
Shape from 21-22-39-G; that gives shape of side. 
Draw a line from 12 to 8 and 23; shape from 5 to 24 and from 4 to 8, that gives 

shape of inside seam. 
Shape from H to 6 and go out to 4, a curved line for the fly, then from H to 7 and 
to 5 a curved line. 

BACK OF PANTS. 

Cut out fore part and lay on another paper and use same cross lines as on first 
paper and draw out centre line to 40 and 34. 

34 to 40 is J-19. 

3 to 29 is J- 19. 

8 to 31 is 3 inch. 

G to 28 is 2 inch. 
Apply square from 34 and 6 and make a straight line down as that gives back. 
Shape 34-30-29, curved seam, that gives back seam. 
Make a cross line from 34 out to 26. 

7 to 39 is 9 i inches. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Pants 

(Continued). 



Apply 9k inches to 30 and as 19 is the half of seat measure, add 2 inches to it, 
that will make 21, which will bring you to 27. 
H to 21 is 8 inches. 
Apply 8 inches to 84, and as 16 is the half of waist measure add 2 inches that will 
bring you to 26. 

12 to 10 is 71 inches; add i inch to it, that will bring you to 33. 
12 to 32 is h inch. 
Draw a line from 31 to 32 and shape 29-31-32, that gives inside seam on back. 
Make a straight line from 28 to 33, then begin to shape from 26-27-28-33, that 
gives the outside seam on back. 
26 to 36 is 2h inches. 
From 35 to 36 I inch is taken out. 
When a wider bottom is necessary, allow on each side of the bottom of the back 

of pants as much as required. 
When you cut cloth for front part of pants cut it according to pattern. Cut from 
the right side of fore part as it is marked on the pattern, H-7-5 and from 5 
to 24. This should always be cut away from right fore part on al] pants. 
Always have from E to 2 mches more than from B to C on all sizes. 
We cut this by seat measure. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Bicycle Rants. 



fore: part. 

The measurements from which the above garment is to be cut are as follows : 

41 Outside Seam. 3*2 Waist. 

30 Inside Seam, 36 Hip. 

17 Knee. 

16i Bottom. 

Draw two lines to form square in upper right-hand 
side of sheet, and mark corner A. 

A to B is 11 inches, draw a line. 

B to C is 14 inches, draw a line. 

B to I is 5-19 inches, 

C to 9 is 1-19 and draw a centre from 9 to 40. 

1 to 2 is J-19. 

2 to 3 is I inches, draw a straight line up. 

3 to 4 is M9. 

4 to 5 is I inch, 

2 to H draw a straight line. 

3 to 6 is 6-19; draw a cross line out to 20. 
H to 21 is 16 inches on halves. 

9 to G is 17 inches on fourths for the bottom. 

9 to 8 is 17 inches on fourths for the bottom. 
Place yard stick from G to 39 and 22 and draw a straight line. 
Shape side from 21-22-39. ^^^ 

Shape from 5 to 24 and from 4 to 8, this is shape of inside seam. 

G to 40 is 1 3 inches. 

40 to 41 is 2 inch. 

41 to 42 is 3 inch. 
Shape dart out to 50. 

8 to 45 is H inches. 
45 to 44 is i inch. 
44 to 43 is 5 inch. 
Shape dart out to 49. 

BACK OF PANTS. 

Cut out fore part and lay on another paper and use same cross lines as on first 
paper and draw out centre line to 40 and 34. 

34 to 40 is ^19. 

3 to 29 is ^ 19. 

8 to 31 is ^ inch. 

G to 28 is i inch. 
Apply square from 34 and 6 and make a straight line down as that gives back seam. 
Make a cross line from 34 out to 26. 

7 to 39 is 91 inches. 



SCHUMAN'S ART OF DESIGNING 



Bicycle Pants 

(Continued). 



Apply 9i inches to 30 and as 19 is the half of seat measure, add 2 inches 
whicti will bring you to 27. 

H to 21 is 8 inches. 
Apply 8 inches to 34, and as 16 is the half of waist measure add 2 inches that will 

bring you to 26. 
Shape from 29 to 31, inside seam. 
Shape 26-27-28, side seam of back 

28 to 33 is 2 inches. 
33 to 54 is I inch. 



31 to 56 is 2 inches. 
56 to 55 is 1 inch. 



Shape dart to 61. 

Shape dart to 62. 

26 to 36 is 2h inches. 
From 35 to 36 I inch is taken out. 
When a wider bottom is necessary, allow on each side of the bottom of the back 

of pants as much as required. 
When you cut cloth for front part of pants cut it according to pattern. Cut from 

the right side of fore part as it is marked on the pattern, H-7-5 and from 5 

to 24. This should always be cut away from right fore part on all pants. 
Always have from E to C 2 inches more than from B to C on all sizes. 

We cut this by seat measure. 



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OCT 5 W05 



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LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 



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